Teacher Training

Another whirlwind day. Two classes at school, including one on diversity and civic education. It seems the English teachers are the teachers who are spearheading discussion of civics, rather than the government or history teachers, as we might expect in the U.S. The teachers tell me this became their task about 15 years ago and they still struggle to get students to understand that citizenship means engagement.
During the lesson, the teachers discussed planning for the future, then showed a short video clip from the U.S. about a high school that organized the building of a handicap accessible playground. The students then discussed how they might do the same in Lutsk, and created an action plan. I worked with a group of boys to answer several questions.
Students then asked me about the student government in the United States. At Gymnasium 18, students have such a government, but it is largely ineffective because it operates outside the normal school day. I explained that our student government is a class, therefore has responsibilities tied to their progress in the class.
Next up was a discussion with eighth grade students, one of whom wanted to know if there were any crack houses near my house. After this lesson, Ievgeniia and Halyna whisked me to another large lunch in the school canteen, and then downtown to a play. I couldn't understand the dialogue, but recognized the emotion and the drama. It was a famous Ukrainian play; a sort of Fiddler on the Roof meets Grease. The end was tragic and that was easy to see, when the love triangle created out of a misunderstanding was broken with the death of one of the girls.
Next was some shopping, which is a completely separate story, then a few groceries, and back to the hotel.

The End, almost

Sitting in the Amsterdam airport after a nine hour walking tour of Kiev and an all night train trip from Lutsk to Kiev. My internet has five minutes to go, so will simply say there is so much more to report and so many more images to post. Couldn't do either the past four days as the internet at the hotel quit and there was no one to ask, and even if there was couldn't speak the language. What a long strange trip it's been, however. More soon.

Wax Romanovs

So today after lessons, two of my Ukrainian colleagues escorted me to a wax exhibit of the Romanov dynasty Russia. The figures represented all the czars from Ivan the Terrible through Nicholas II. The final scene depicted Nicholas and his family being assassinated. It was gruesome because it was life like. The eyes for each figure were made by a famous Ukrainian doctor who specializes in prosthetic eyes and teeth. We had a guided tour, but after the guide explained each figure's history in Ukrainian, my hosts explained again in English. The exhibt cost the three of us the equivalent of $6, but then I had to pay another three for the right to take photos. I've forgotten to bring my camera to the public place where I must connect to the internet, so will post some of the photos later. The most interesting figures were Ivan the Terrible, Gregory Rasputin, and Tolstoy.
Later we visited the largest grocery store in Kiev, Tam Tam, which means "there, there." It was the equivalent of a Sam's Club or Costco, except there is no membership fee. At the fish counter there were large oxygenated tanks filled with swimming carp and catfish. You tell the counter person which fish you want, and they scoop it out and clean it for you before wrapping it up and sending you on your way. I was satisfied with some local candy, a few containers of yogurt, some pastries, and of course the local beer.
Tomorrow I'm accompanying a class to a local theatre to see a drama, and while I won't understand a single word, the action will be universal I'm certain. Back in my room later I will watch German television, which broadcasts for part of the day in English, or Ukrainian football, which requires no translation, as soccer is the same the world over.

History

Another wonderful meal at the flat of a colleague and her family. What was most intersting was discussing Ukrainian history with the family. The parents are my age, so were born under Soviet rule, but witnessed independence and all the turmoil this has brought. Viktor, a local policeman who certainly does prefer independence, did point out however how some public services were better under the Soviets. College for example, was free if you passed the right exams, whereas now, like at home, the student or family must pay a steep price. His son is a first year university student, and for agreeing to work for the government for three years after graduation, the government provides tuition assistance, but does not pay the total costs. Ukraine means "borderland," and it has truly been a changing border for a thousand years. To hear this from the people who live here and know the stories intimately is moving.

Hard to Believe

Svitlana said many amazing things to me last night. For example, she had to spend a year teaching in Poland several years ago because the Ukrainian government had stopped paying the teachers. Several enlisted with a private organization and traveled to Poland for a year to teach. She told also about how last year she and Sasha could not take their money out of the bank as the government closed the banks. Between them, Svitlana a teacher and Sasha a policemen, they make approximately $500. They bought their flat for $5,500 several years ago. They do not own a car and Sasha often has to pay for the fuel to gas his police car. He sometimes has to take a bus to the village where he is a police officer.
She also told about how in the past the government forbid the teaching of Ukrainian history. "We really don't know our history," she said. The history was not taught, and then was replaced by a government version of the history that had been lost. These are all amazing statements for American to hear. We think of our history as unmalleable.

Cultural Highlights

Yesterday was the most full day yet. To start, I visited old Lutsk, including Lubert, or Lutsk, Castle. Built in the middle to late 14th century, the structure is a combination of wood and brick and looks out over the city from on high. Nearby is the Cathedral of Saint Peter and Paul, which we were unable to visit due to a funeral.
From the castle, we made our way to the center of the city, where I bought a few souvenirs and simply took in the sights and sounds. Lutsk has an obvious European feel, with few private cars and many busses and trolleys. Women in the latest fashions hurry by, while men dressed in dark colors with serious eyes move more slowly or occupy street corners drinking beer.
We walked along the main pedestrian boulevard, stopping for lunch at a small cafe, where latkes, green salad, and beer for three was just short of $11.
The highlight of the day trip was a visit to the house of a local artist. He is a neighbor of Ivgeniia, my host teacher, but keeps this second house in the city to work on his sculpture. We chatted briefly and walked about his courtyard, strewn with various works of marble and stone in various stages of completion. The house sits at the end of a cobbled street that butts up to the riverbank. The locals call it "The House of Chimera." Our host was disappointed when I couldn't produce American coins, but I do have some in my hotel rooom I'll pass on to him.
After our day, where I was accompanied by Ivgeniia, Gollia, and Andrew. Andrew is the son of one of the English teachers at Gymnasium 18, and he spent last year as an exchange student in Leadville, Colorado.
Next up was dinner at the home of Svitlana, the English department chairwoman, and her family. Her husband Sasha does not speak English, but when he and I discovered our mutual love of fishing, we seemed able to communicate regardless of the language barrier.
The family is impressive, in that Sasha and Svitlana communicate in Russian, while Svitlana and her daughter Anastasia communicate in Ukrainian and English. They treated me to baked Hake and my first taste of salo, a sort of pig fat that is salted and cooled. It tasted like meaty bacon and it was suggested I eat it on a piece of dark bread. There was also plenty of good Ukrainian vodka.
After a long day of sightseeing and much good food and conversation I slept well.

Sights to see

Yesterday was filled with several hours at school, followed by a trip to the center of the city for a sort of cultural concert. It seems several local government workers were being honored for their efforts, and in between announcing names and giving out certificates accompanied by red carnations, there was dancing, singing, and even an orchestra. Ivgeniia, my contact teacher at Gymnasium 18, was one of the dancers. I was accompanied by Olga and Ilya.
The festivities were colorful, cheery, and loud.
Afterwards, as ever, the ladies accompanied me back to the hotel, with a stop first at a local market, where I bought my provisions for breakfast; some green tea, some yogurt, and a couple pastries. They then walked me to the hotel, where they informed the restaurant staff I would not be dining in, and left me. I spent the rest of the night updating on the internet, watching Ukrainian television and reading Anna Reid's fascinating history of Ukraine, "Borderlands."
Today I am to accompany Ivgeniia and Gollia to a local castle, do some souvenir shopping, then have dinner with Svitlana and her family. Svitlana is the chair of the English department at the school. Her husband doesn't speak English, but her daughter does, so I should be able to communicate just fine.
Am going to try and attach a couple photos here before signing off.